Hypermiling Techniques

Hypermiling is the art of driving economically and exceeding vehicle manufacturers stated efficiency by modifying driving habits and techniques.

The word Hypermiling was added to the Oxford Dictionary in 2008, they named it “word of the year”.

The term Hypermiling was originally coined by Wayne Gerdes who is considered by many in the Hypermiling Community as the “father of Hypermiling” Hypermiling is a great way to save on fuel costs and aides safer motoring. These techniques could help reduce your fuel usage and costs by up to 40% percent and I personally have seen a 35 – 40 percent increase in my MPG by using the techniques and tips below. See my Hypermiling Blog to view my experiences of Hypermiling.

Hypermiling Safely

Before we start with Hypermiling Techniques I would like to address the safety issue that is getting “Hypermilers” a lot of bad press. Hypermiling, as with any other form of driving technique, can be dangerous if used on the wrong road and in unsuitable traffic conditions. Please always be aware of other road users and do not endanger yourself or others for the sake of saving a few miles per gallon.

We encourage safe and considerate driving. Please read our Contact Us page for legal details.

Hypermiling Basics

Hypermiling is a great way to help improve your fuel consumption and there are also some other ways to help maximise your Hypermiling Techniques before even considering your driving style. We suggest you:

  • Track your MPG. Keep detailed records of your mileage and fuel usage so you can gauge your hypermiling efforts. Use our MPG calculator or download our apps for both Apple and Android devices.
  • Keep your car well maintained and serviced regularly. Some people opt for a thinner oil when trying to optimise their MPG. Thinner oil means less energy is required to turn the engine.
  • Remove excess weight i.e. golf clubs, tool boxes and prams / push chairs.
  • Ensure your tyre pressures are correct. We do not condone over inflating your tyres, as this may cause premature wear and possible blow outs. Low tyre pressure causes more drag and thus less MPG.
  • Keep the windows up. An open window cause drag
  • Keep the air-con off. Air Conditioning can decrease your fuel consumption by up to 10 percent in some cases.
  • Take any unused Roof or bike racks off, they too increase drag
  • Don’t drive in big shoes, they take away the sensitivity you need with the throttle. The best way to Hypermile is to feel how the car is responding to your right foot. Two inches of sole doesn’t help.

Common Hypermiling Terms

  • FE – Fuel Economy
  • DWB – Driving without brakes
  • FAS – Forced auto stop, basically coasting with the engine off
  • P&G – Pulse and Glide
  • ICE – Internal Combustion Engine
  • D-FAS – Draft-Assisted FAS. Coasting with engine off while drafting (again bad)

Click for more common hypermiling and fuel saving abbreviations 

Hypermiling Top Tips

Here are our top 5 Hypermiling driving tips

  • Don’t drive The best Hypermiling Tip that we could ever give. This not only saves you 100 percent of your precious fuel but it also keeps you healthier and saves on vehicle maintenance. Short journeys use much more fuel than longer ones. You engine doesn’t have time to get up to it’s optimal working temperature thus causing increased engine wear.
  • Drive defensively. Anticipate the road ahead. By driving “reactively” You effectively hand control over your fuel consumption (and safety) to other drivers. Look well ahead so you’re aware of what you’re driving into and can anticipate changes before they occur. And in order to be able to see well ahead, you need to leave adequate following distance to the vehicle(s) in front of you.
  • Drive without brakes (DWB). Every time you brake you effectively turn fuel into heat & brake dust. This type of deceleration maximises uses your car’s stored momentum and energy.
  • Slow down! The faster you go the more drag and resistance is placed upon your trusty steed. A reduction of 20mph can increase your MPG by up to 45 percent.
  • Coasting. Shutting the engine down when stopped or while coasting to stop/turn is one of the main reasons for hybrid vehicles’ excellent city fuel consumption. We would not ever suggest coasting with the engine off but simply remove your foot from the accelerator when approaching a junction or red light. A modern engine uses no fuel at all when coasting in ger.
    Read more about coasting in our Hypermiling 101 dedicated to coasting techniques.
Read on for a more details overview of Hypermiling, including our “Advanced Hypermiling Techniques”.

How to Hypermile


High concentration is the key to becoming a successful Hypermiler, I would even go as far to say that it requires more concentration to Hypermile effectively than to drive fast. Not only will lack of concentration keep you from getting the very most out of every drop of fuel it puts both yourself and others at risk. We suggest you:

  • Switch OFF your mobile
  • Turn off the radio
  • Ask your passengers to keep noise to a minimum
  • Keep conversation with passengers to a minimum

These ideas may seem quite harsh but you will be surprised how quickly your Hypermiling efforts are thwarted when your mind is elsewhere.

Drive Less

Even without Hypermiling there is a great way of using less fuel, you guessed it… drive less! This could include:

  • Using Public Transport
  • Car / lift sharing (also see slugging below)
  • Walking, biking or maybe running (hard work I know!)
  • Move closer to your work


“Slugging”, “Instant Carpooling” or “Casual Carpooling” is a term from the USA, it involves the creation of free, unofficial ad-hoc carpool networks, often complete with published routes and pick-up and drop-off locations. During rush hour, sluggers either drive to park and ride-like facilities, free parking lots for carpoolers, or take public transport to bus stops and metro stations with lines of sluggers. Drivers pull up to the queue for the route they will follow and either display a sign or call out the designated drop-off point they are willing to drive to and how many passengers they can take. Enough riders step forward to fill the car and the driver departs. There are a number of unofficial rules to the arrangement. A major advantage of slugging is that the car, carrying or passengers will be permitted to drive on high-occupancy vehicle (HOV) lanes only available to drivers with three other passengers.

Get your fuel for the best price

Using Hypermiling Techniques will help you maximise the return from your tank ensuring you get the best price for what you put in it. Check out PetrolPrices.com for the best prices in your area. This saves running about town looking for the best deal.

Keep an eye out for fuel vouchers and discounts from supermarkets. Many offer discounts of up to 5p a litre when you spend a certain amount in store. Just be sure that you are buying things you need and not just spending to qualify for the voucher. 5p of a litre will save you £2.50 from an average 50 litre fill up.

Chose the right route

The shortest and quickest way might not always be the best when you are trying to Hypermile. Hypermiling is all about driving smoothly and when you are stuck in traffic or having to stop start  about town you are NOT driving smoothly. Taking a less uninterrupted  route, it might take slightly longer but you wont have the start / stopping effecting your MPG

Turn it off!

If like me you are faced with the common problem of railway crossings and dithering folk that hold up a queue of traffic at a junction you should switch off your engine as soon as possible. When you are idling you are doing ZERO MPG. While idling you also run the risk of overheating your engine. Idling for any more than 10 seconds is a waste of fuel.


When parking don’t opt for the closest space to the front of the shops, not only will you have to waste fuel looking for the elusive “prime” spot. But very often you will have a car parked in front of you meaning you will need a lengthy manoeuvre  just to get out. Try parking away from the crowds in a forward facing spot – also known as “face out”. That way you can just start up and drive off. Also try and pick a spot on a slight hill so you can utilise the gravity of the car rolling down. If possible try and park in a shady spot, in the summer months it make not using the air conditioning a lot easier! Also consider your parking in the winter months. Face your car into the morning sun to help defrost your windscreen or even better get a plastic sheet to put over it to help stop any ice forming. I often see people leaving their cars running for long periods of time just to defrost their glass. It also saves buying de-icer.

Your Oil Matters

Keeping on top of your vehicle servicing is a must for any motorist to ensure it performs at its optimum efficiency. Using engine oil of a low viscosity (but still within your manufactures recommended oil requirements) can not only improve your MPG but also increase the longevity of your engine. Thinner oil reduces friction of the engine components. Many Hypermilers opt for a high grade fully synthetic oil to help maximise economy.

Winter Hypermiling Tips

During the cold months there are a number of reasons why our cars use more fuel. These can have a major effect on your cars MPG and cause more wear and tear on the engine. Some claim that the cold can reduce your MPG by over half. Here are some of the reasons why:

  • Snow, ice, rain, grit and other muck on the roads make a car work harder to keep moving.
  • The cold reduces the air pressure in tyres, leading to more wasted fuel.
  • Cold air is denser than warm air, which is why cold draughts spill down from a draughty window. That puts more aerodynamic drag on a vehicle, which means it has to push harder to get through the air, especially at high speed.
  • Engine and transmission oil is thicker in low temperatures, it takes more energy to turn the engine.

To help minimize the cold weather’s effect on your precious fuel we suggest:

  • Reduce idling: Use your Garage (if you have one) or cover your windscreen up over night to ensure an ice free morning.
  • Park into the sun: If you don’t have a garage or windscreen cover – Let the sun de-ice your windscreen instead of idling until your heaters slowly thaw it.
  • Take off the snow: It may look pretty but snow not only weighs a far bit but also increases drag.
  • Set your alarm clock ten minutes earlier! Give yourself extra time so if clearing the car takes longer than anticipated, you don’t feel compelled to “make up time” on the road to avoid being late.

Remember to ensure you always have a warm jacket in the car when travelling in the cold weather. Having to wait for the AA for over an hour in the snow is not enjoyable. Trust me… I know!

Summer Hypermiling Tips

In the summer months (or days in the UK) – heat is you enemy, and if you are anything like me driving in a hot car is something I despise. The instant reaction to a hot car is to open the windows or turn the aircon on. Both of these will cost you in terms of your MPG. Follow these tips to minimize the effects of the raging sun.

  • Park in the shade. Use tree, buildings or what ever you can to stop the sun from cooking your interior.
  • Use silver windscreen deflectors to divert away the sun if you have no shade
  • If possible find a parking spot that will allow you to leave you windows open with out attracting undesirables to your valuables.
  • Under 40MPH open windows cause very little drag, they are still a much better option than having the air conditioning on.
  • If you simply must have the air condition on, set the mode to recirculating. This ensures that you are chilling the cool air already in your car and not having to cool the warmer air from out side.
  • Hanging material such as towels in the rear windows is a great way of stopping those nasty rays from cooking you. It’s a blast from the past but very effective.

Hypermiling Gadgets

There are a number of Hypermiling gadgets that have been designed to assist you in not only monitoring your MPG but also watching how you drive. These devices often plug into the diagnostics port of the car and can access readings from sensors and the ECU. These include throttle position, air to fuel ratios and speed.There are also a number of iPhone apps such our very own MPG Calculator for IOS that helps you keep track of your fuel consumption. Manufacturers have also pushed to help you make the most of your fuel with the introduction of systems such as Honda’s Eco Assist feature its flagship Hybrid Insight.

Fuel Additives

Fuel additives work by improving the combustion in the engine by creating a finer fuel mist. While additives it may not offer the huge increases that other techniques give you but combine it with your newly learnt Hypermiling techniques and it could see you returning some very impressive results.

Why not see our product review of the Aderco Fuel Additive and read our experiences with such products.

Hybrid Drivers

For those of you who are lucky enough to drive a Hybrid car, see our Hybrid Hypermiling Techniques page. Just remember that many of the techniques on this page are still applicable to hybrids so make sure you also carry on reading below.

Click here or the Hybrid Hypermiling Techniques page

Advanced Hypermiling Techniques


There are 3 different types of coasting that can be adopted, each with its own advantages and disadvantages.

In gear coasting

When in gear coasting, most modern engines use no fuel at all. The fuel injection system goes into fuel cut off mode and the forward momentum of the car is what keeps the engine turning over.

This is a great way of saving fuel buts its best suited to situations where you have to come to a standstill, like at a busy junction. Your coasting distanced are greatly reduced compared to neutral coasting due to engine braking but you use less fuel in the process.

As the vehicle remaining in gear, its seen as the safest form of coasting. It enabled you to be in full control of the car at all times.

Neutral coasting

To maintain idle revs fuel must be consumed. This is the biggest downside of this technique compare to in gear coasting, however on the upside – your coasting distances are greatly improved.

Due to the lack of engine braking, this technique is more suited to situations where deceleration needs to be minimised, like on a motorway. Many Hypermilers adopt it on hills to further increase the coasting distances with the possibility of adding a little speed too.

Engine off coasting (also called FAS Forced Auto stop)

This technique involves turning the engine off while the car is still moving and rolling for as long as possible only using the cars momentum. This is a dangerous technique. It can effect braking and power steering performance. If you insist on using this technique, we would suggest you dip the clutch, turn off the engine (leaving the ignition on). This ensures the car can be started quickly by releasing the clutch.

This FAS technique also ensures that your true mileage is recorded. Many cars will still show the current driving speed with the ignition on and will not effect your estimated MPG if you are working it out with mileage vs litres used.

Drafted Forced Auto Stop (D-FAS)

This is the same as FAS but involves drafting the vehicle in front to minimise wind / air resistance. This is even crazier than FAS, please do not attempt it.

Read more about coasting in our Hypermiling 101 dedicated to coasting techniques.


Drafting is used to reduce wind resistance and is used most commonly in bicycle racing, car racing, and speed skating. It simply means following the vehicle in front and sitting in their slip stream. Following other vehicles to the extent that some Hypermilers do is very dangerous and has caused a lot of bad press towards the Hypermiling Community. If you are going to adopt this technique we would recommend for your own and others safety that you only follow the vehicle in front with guidance from the highway code (the two second rule). This may not be as efficient as sitting on the vehicle in fronts bumper but Its still a very good way of helping increase your MPG. People have suggested that an increase of up to 40 percent is possible and until I saw the Mythbusters episode featuring drafting I was very skeptical about these claims. In true Mythbusters style, they have confirmed that drafting does work. Check our the Hypermiling Videos page to see the Mythbusters Drafting Episode.

Ridge Riding

This is a quite a new term to the Hypermiling scene and is a safety technique first and foremost. By positioning your car out of the “ridges” in the road caused by other vehicles it make you stand out to other road users. This technique has been primarily adopted by Hypermilers in the US.

Also check out our busy Hypermiling Forum for more advice and tips from other Hypermilers.

41 comments on “Hypermiling Techniques
  1. Patrick says:

    Take all unused seats out of your people carrier / minivan – they are very heavy. Added bonus is that you are ready to take the occasional large load eg furniture.

  2. Robert Collins says:

    I travel 24 miles to and from work along country roads and round the edge of Colchester in a 2001 Skoda Octavia 1.9 diesel with 145K miles. Usually I can average 53mpg which is great for such a big car and have just started using hypermiling techniques and managed 68.8 mpg on the way home tonight! Am I saving money? You do the Maths!

    • Mike says:

      Getting an extra 15 mpg over 20k miles a year will save you around €400, hardly worth the hassle. Also the extra cost of hybrids cancel out any savings eg a Yaris hybrid is 4K dearer than a standard Yaris and @ 20k miles a year it would take 10 years before you start saving, think about it.

  3. Dexter says:

    I hypermile commute 100 miles a day on a Honda Deauville motorbike
    At 70-80mph I was getting 46mpg (not bad, but it is a bike), I slowed down to 65mph and got 55mpg.
    Now I have taken it a step further, 50-55mph tops and I am seeing 65mpg. A 41% improvement, and my brakes now last 40k miles instead of 20k.
    You also get to pass all the fast cars as they queue in traffic.

  4. chris johnson says:

    Good ideas, although a you are bit wooly about the ridiculously dangerous FAS. You would also be taken more seriously if you got someone to spell-check your content! Loads of spelling mistakes. Keep it up though.

  5. Karl says:

    Hi Chris

    Thanks for the comments. FAS is dangerous but it is recongnised as a Hypermiling Technique, I do stress that safety is a big part of Hypermiling.

    I’ll have a look at the spelling, its never been my strong point.

  6. ken says:

    Using hypermiler methods i can now get 68-70 mpg on my peugeot 106 diesel, which is excellent, before i was getting between 50 -60 , so a vast improvement and im sav ing money !

  7. Howard says:

    Cool website! Can you tell me what would be more economical. Coasting to a stop with the car in gear or coasting to a stop in neutral? I just can’t fathom it out. Best Regards…

    • Stephan says:

      Coasting to a stop with the car in gear is best and also safest. Modern cars don’t use fuel when you do that as the engine is being kept running by the energy of you travelling along, so you gradually slow down, using no fuel. When in neutral and coasting along, the engine will be running on fuel to keep it spinning at the idle speed so it’s not as efficient.

      • Nic says:

        I keep meaning to do some tests on this. I understand that coasting in neutral uses fuel and in gear doesn’t, but if I coast down a hill in neutral I get further along the flat at the bottom of the hill than if I coast in gear. So I have to get on the accelerator sooner.

        • Rob says:

          Coast in a high gear so there’s less resistance from engine braking but the engine still won’t be ticking over on its own.

  8. george dyson says:

    I’m a recent hypermiler in my S-type Jaguar 2.7D. All my driving is “urban”, and the handbook says 26mpgUK–urban, for this autobox car.
    I’ve been carrying out many experiments with my car to improve mpg. apart from the well documented ones. I can say with certainty the following DON’T work:–

    1) Replacing the engine oil with 0W30 from 5W30. NO difference. But changed it because a change was due — no money wasted.
    2) Putting additives in the fuel. NO difference.
    3) During cold weather, blocking part of the intercooler. Actually WORSE mpg.

    The following made a big difference:–

    1) Installing an engine sump heater with an input of around 2Kw/h. Big cold-weather difference.
    2) Paying huge attention to driving techniques, especially making use of the deceleration-fuel-shut-off feature in my car. This needs explaining.
    There are three engine modes, POWER, IDLE, and NO-FUEL.
    Instead of driving ‘smoothly’ I use an on-off technique. I power-up to slightly faster than I want, lift off, feel the car go from “idle-mode” to “shut-off mode”. During shut-off, it feels like the brakes are being very softly applied. To regain speed, I tickle the pedal VERY softly to do this. Continuously repeat this. When going uphill, you’re mostly in POWER mode, going downhill mostly in SHUT-OFF mode. On the level, use the ‘tickling’ technique. You are looking for shut-off mode all the time, as this makes an impressive difference. THIS WORKS BEST IN URBAN HEAVY TRAFFIC.
    I havn’t finished the test yet, but it’s looking like 33mpgUK, where the book says 26mpgUK. BTW, I use the fuel computer displayonly as a help. Figs. are brim-brim vs. miles covered.

  9. Peter says:

    07 merc S320 CDi – big heavy car
    Normal mpg 34mpg

    I drive a 170 mile round trip daily to work – mainly motorway

    trying a bit of this out — 47mpg


  10. george dyson says:

    Glad you’re saving money Peter. You may have also noticed that hypermiling doesn’t get you around any slower. Sometimes indeed you get around slightly faster!
    That fuel shut off business BTW is a lot more complicated than at !st. sight. Ford got an award for it, i.e. Fordflex. Also called agressive DFCO (decel. fuel cut-off). There is a “half-way-house” when decel. ENLEANMENT (weaker A/F ratio) is used. This is prob. what’s happening in my Ford-influenced Jaguar.

  11. Dominic Amann says:

    I am surprised all this is considered as new. My dad taught us most of these techniques back in the 60s and 70s when I was a kid. I have taken them to extreme on occasion when far from a gas station. Many friends thought I was crazy when I would shut off the engine when waiting at traffic lights – but I would always exceed the manufacturers mpg figures, and they never even achieved them.

    Of course my wife says I am just cheap, but she still prefers me to do the driving!

  12. Frank says:

    I try to use the brakes as little as possible when driving, especially on A roads. I have a Micra, which has a pretty accurate fuel consumption read-out and today I drove 50 miles on a route which featured many bends and steep climbs. as well as long straights. I kept to the legal limit and hardly used my brakes, just slowed by using the gears when necessary and allowing my speed to drop for urban areas by “lifting off” the throttle so my speed was down as I entered the lower limits. My average MPG was 61 MPG! Just shows what you can do with a little bit of effort. Thing is it was a most enjoyable journey as there is no doubt forward planning makes for a much smoother and satisfying drive.

  13. Stephen says:

    Does a vehicles battery have time to recover from all the load placed upon it by starting and stopping the engine so much in stopngo traffic? Batteries are expensive too, so is the cars starter, over $250usd for my Toyota Corolla…

  14. Humph Baker says:

    Those of us who drove cars with free-wheel units (Saab, Rover, two-stoke east European vehicles etc) found ourselves accelerating down hill and freewheeling up the other side.
    Some manufacturers are including a ‘sailing’ facility within their transmissions, usually on hybrid variants. When will these new style free-wheel units become more common?
    The best technique we enjoyed was teaching our kids to drive with them putting the fuel in – and learning to keep an eye on the trip computer. My daughter has nearly matched my 79mpg across the Pennines in a Modus.

    • Peter Barrow says:

      My 2018 e class estate 220D.
      Has 9 years. The ECO mode has a gliding setting. So under the right conditions it coasts. Dropping the rpm to tick over.
      So at 58mph it selects 8th gear at 1250rpm. It does mid to high 60’s. Best so far on regular 120 mile run is 69.4mpg.

  15. Josh says:

    @ george dyson

    The reason your 0w-30 oil didnt do better than 5w-30 is because the viscosity you changed was for start up. When driving and warmed up the ’30’ part is the viscosity your oil should be, and as it didn’t change, neither did your MPG. I wouldnt reccomend going down to 20 though in your car.

  16. Viva says:

    Great site. After doing A-level Physics/Maths and a B.Eng in engineering, the techniques you mention all make sense and I have been using them for years. It’s amazing how little people know about physics, but your site puts the info in an easy-to-understand format, let’s hope more people adopt the methods. My car claims combined 47mpg, this morning my 40-mile commute was 63mpg (consumption computer setting reset on cold engine as I set off). I have had 66mpg, but mostly it’s 58 – 63mpg in summer. Over a full tank it normally averages around 49-52mpg, but I did once get 56mpg. People who say the manufacturer combined figure is a myth need to read the advice on this site carefully. The combined figure isn’t a target to reach, it’s a lower level to not dip DOWN to. If I was getting 47mpg from my car, I’d give myself a slap in the face and work out where I went so horribly wrong. (My car is 53-plate 320cd M-Sport 6sp manual with 160k on clock). Viva la hypermilers!!

  17. krish sound says:

    I am getting around 27km per litre of Diesel from my Ford car in India using this technique. Although I am not using all the tips / techniqueng to travel to my work – up& down 55km per day, allowable time / road traffic / density , I adjust the techniques and drive carefully without disturbing the other drivers. Grateful for the tips.

  18. JJ Williams says:

    Thanks for the techniques. I got 63 MPG in my ’03 Vanquish. Oh, and Chris Johnson, before you criticize someone on their spelling mistakes, perhaps you should proofread your own comment.

  19. MisterJohn says:

    You mention driving smoothly is best, but you don’t mention much about the “pulse & glide” method, which is almost the antithesis of smooth.
    If you have a conventional petrol engine, from what I understand, you are best operating it with the throttle fully open, as this minimises the pumping losses. Your engine sucks in cool air, and blows most of it out unchanged, albeit a lot hotter. Your throttle pedal operates a flap in the inlet that acts as a big restriction to this flow. Open the throttle fully, and the restriction goes away.
    As a result you will accelerate very hard; this is good because your engine is breathing most easily. (Try breathing with and without your hand over your mouth to see the difference). The next thing to do is to try to keep the RPM around peak torque, which in my car is about 3500RPM. Peak torque and a fully open throttle is the magic combination where the car engine is most efficient. If you have a very small petrol engine, it might be possible to sit at 70 MPH with the throttle fully open, and not pick up speed; this is why small engines generally give better MPG. Most of us have spare power in our 1L+ engines, so we need to take our feet off the throttle pedals periodically and coast down, so averaging a lower power over time.
    Petrol GDI engines and diesels don’t have throttles, so won’t benefit from this technique.
    Some engines shut down a bank of cylinders when the full design power is not needed, thereby turning themselves into smaller engines, which is a far more refined way of achieving the same result.

    Anyway, the upshot of this is that driving with a leaden right foot can be good rather than bad, so long as you coast down to lose the speed rather than braking.

  20. D. Brown says:

    Nice website.

    The Top Hypermiling tip is “don’t drive”? That’s a bit like recommending “don’t breathe” as a top tip for minimizing your ecological footprint.

    Nothing in the top tips about careful selection of the vehicle itself, and matching its size and engine to your real everyday needs. With the rampant fashion of driving SUVs in the city, I’d imagine there are a few people out there driving a Rang Rover who could suffice with a Yaris in dire need of this advice. Also, nothing about selecting tires with low rolling resistance, using narrower tires if possible, or minimizing wheel weight and not overdoing the overall wheel diameter. With the equally, if not even more rampant fashion of oversized aftermarket rims and unnecessarily wide low profile tires, you’d think that dishing out that as a top tip would really hit its mark.

    Also, if we’re throwing out golf bags in an effort to reduce weight inside the vehicle, which is in fact very sensible, we could also expect drivers to go on a diet in their hypermiling efforts, especially since obesity and overweight is more common among drivers than playing golf.

    • Brian Jones says:

      I don’t think the hypermiling community are keen on pimping their cars. it is true many of us (including me) are overweight. But throwing out the golf clubs is what I can do today to improve my MPG.

  21. Mechanically Sympathetic Man says:

    Good techniques but I can suggest more than those provided. What rarely gets mentioned is smoothness of the steering; turn into corners using the most gradual turn in and out of the corner as possible and use the racing line within your lane assuming people aren’t coming the other way.

    There’s no point racing up to the back of the car in front in traffic so run the engine at a very constant lowish rpm until you need to change speed, but not too low or the engine will lug. You can combine these two in normal traffic and find an efficient rpm and speed for the car in any given situation while treating the tyres like they’re made of glass; if you turn too sharply they’ll grind on the road and waste fuel.

    A technique I found myself is to change up a gear when coasting in gear down a hill; it’s safe and will let you roll without using fuel for longer. Just keep the rpm just above idle at all times. Can I recommend using the brakes heavily at times cuz I hypermiled for 4 years hardly braking and last year 3 of them had clogged up. It isn’t worth the cost of repairs in fuel saving!

    Going at the highest possible speed for the given road can be good for small engine cars if you can get away with it; they might work better at slightly higher rpm. Peak efficiency might be a few mph over the limit but be alert!

    In my case I have an unmodified pug 106 1.5 diesel and can get 65mpg while driving on relatively clear roads, around roundabouts and traffic holdups in a busy town. I treat every part of my car like it’ll break if I overstress any part of it but I still get around fine without drafting or destroying the starter motor turning the engine off in jams.

  22. Fox Toyota says:

    I had a customer come in earlier in the week talking about Hypermilling and I had no clue what he was talking about. This post does an incredible job explaining it. I had to do the ole nod and smile to make him think I was keeping up with what he was saying. Then coming and checking it out myself.

  23. Audi Birmingham says:

    This is a great post, I remember when there was a huge initial buzz around hypermilling- I agree that in some cases it can be extremely dangerous however if you read any fuel saving article or blog they will make similar points about not braking harshly, speeding and so on so perhaps it is just a case of how extreme your need to save on costs is.

  24. Steve Harland says:

    Some useful tips, however as a trained ADI I don’t believe you should include the FAS comments where you suggest turning off the engine while moving. This must be one of the stupidest and dangerous things you can do. I take on board that you add it is not recommended, but have you ever said to a 4 year old “this is how you jump off a 6 foot wall…..but don’t you do it” They are just going to do it anyway. Best not to mention it all. Once the vehicle has stopped of course its worth considering (depending how long you will be waiting for). Also, you suggest turning the engine off but putting the ignition back on, well my power steering only works with the engine running so that doesn’t help!

    • pirate says:

      Agreed – why on earth even mention FAS?

      It’s stupid.
      It’s selfish.

      Just because some idiots might regard it as a technique does not warrant listing it.

      Please take some responsibility.

  25. Biggest tip I can add is pull your seat back a tad to help the tickling/feathering the accelerator. I can also agree shoe wear also matters a lot.

  26. Eddie says:

    Hi all I drive to work and back that 70 miles a day for just 30p
    That’s a saving of over £1200 a year ….yes I have a battery car a Nissan leaf but I do have a petrol car when I can’t find a charging point in the place I am going to .
    Did 1000 miles with petrol and 12000 on a battery

  27. Jose Peixoto says:

    Funny things,here

    Guys with HEAVY cars trying to save gas…. it´s a handicapp…
    you dont need 2 tons of steel to go from a to b, NORMALLY…

    try to push a small micra(?); then try to push a big suburban(?); or a BUS

    CATCH MY DRIFT???????

    • Jose Peixoto says:

      Having said that,I have on ALL my cars a small rectangular microswitch,lever type,tied w/ a plastic tie,to the shifter stick,at the top,under the ball; i reach it w/ my fingertip; it´s spring loaded,and it springs back;

      it cuts the engine off( different cars,diff.wirings,i have a 3.1TD Opel MONTEREY(Vauxhall,bighorn,etc,diff.names in diff. parts of the world) I have several DAEWOO NUBIRA 1.6 DOHC,gas and LPG, I have a 1.4 diesel old(1992) vw;

      start-stop,off on descents(CAREFUL,ONLY TWO(?) HITS ON THE BRAKE PEDAL,VACUUM RESERVE WILL BE OUT»»»NNOO BBRRAAKKEESS!!OR keep in GEAR,clutch down),off when aproachin a light from a distance,etc

      Steering,power, on MOST ,will be gone; you must train yourself,and have,sometimes on turns,strong arms

      BUT: I VERY VERy VERY SELDOM use my starter(too much trouble to change it); I coast to the light,engine off,SLOWLY,when about to stop,i bump start it(2nd gearONLY and ALWAYS: 3rd not enough,1st a big jolt)
      I have had all these cars for 10-15 years,Ilove them;
      mechanic for over 40 years,and I had v12s(xjs,lots,as a dealer) mercs(few),not now.

      on the MONTEREY i have TWO micro switches: the 2nd one ,wired to the starter,starts the car; just to amaze people sometimes,cause they dont know how the motor died,nor how it started(and took off right way-1st was in,clutch down,eh,eh),since you cant see the movement of the fingers(hand on the shifter).

      I think the start-stop thing was coppied from be,just kidding
      This stuff is for profs ,only;my daughters are petrified of it,when THEY drive,I absolutely forbid them,and and dont use it

      BUT,on the Monterey,(1970KGS,empty), no matter what you do,it,s never better than 10 lit/100kms(23mpg?) in town;

      After many years,i almost dont use the start-stop thing: too much trouble

      You want to save fuel,get a small,or very small car,diesel pref.NO TURBO,40 or 50 hp,MAX; a 300 hp car only uses 50 hp to move at legal speeds

      Thecraze of the hp,GERMANY STARTED IT: GUILTY,GUILTY… never ceases to amaze me; to the delight of the speed camera guys

      You dont buy the car you WANT or NEED; you buy the car THEY want you to get; NNOOTT I ,NNOOTT MMEE

  28. Fabrizio Rocca says:

    Thank you for all these suggestions!
    Now I’ve reached a 51 mpg.

  29. Phil says:

    If you keep your car clean and highly polished, the air will slip over the bodywork with less resistance resulting in more MPG.
    By the way our petrol is £1 06p per litre.
    From a Yorkshireman who as we all know is a scotsman with the generosity squeezed out.

  30. Phil says:

    Please disregard the information suggesting turning off the engine whilst in motion is a good idea. ITS NOT, ITS DANGEROUS TO YOU AND TO OTHER ROAD USERS.
    There is on bit of information that i havent read in the main article or made in the comments. One aspect and exercise one can do is judge how much fuel you are likely to use before filling up next time. There is no point is constantly driving with that excess weight (the fuel) On board. On a recent trip to manchester from london I made sure i had enough fuel for that one journey plus a bit just for safety and for unforeseen circumstances. the trip back the same. For an old car Toyota Carina 2 (petrol) to get over 50 MPG isn’t doing bad

  31. Phil says:

    As a follow on to earlier comment re full tank of fuel, I always make a point of being more of a “Hypermiler” when the tank is at its fullest, as i know the better you do with the weight at its heaviest the higher MPG you will get, also it might get you into the zone when it isnt as full!

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